Under the shadow and spell of Goatfell

THE WILD north half of Arran spans from the pretty village of Corrie across the mountains to Pirnmill, which overlooks Kintyre. Miles of unspoilt scenery and striking wildlife are there for all to see. Corrie is situated six miles from Brodick. It has a pretty procession of cottages lining the road to Lochranza and wrapping themselves around a picturesque little harbour. It lies under the island’s highest mountain, Goatfell, and a path provides access to the hillside.

The village used to be a regular stop for steamers travelling around the island, but the pier has since fallen into disrepair.
Its one pub, The Corrie Hotel, has an informal and pleasant atmosphere offering good food and friendly service at reasonable prices.

The hotel provides not only evening meals, but also bar lunches, morning coffee, afternoon tea, and evening bar meals. There are plenty of places to stay in the village. As well as the hotel there is the Blackrock, a traditional sea front guesthouse and for those on a budget a 10-minute steep climb takes you to North High Corrie Croft, a bunkhouse on a raised beach that overlooks the village. It has one large room for group bookings and an annexe with eight beds.

THE WILD north half of Arran spans from the pretty village of Corrie across the mountains to Pirnmill, which overlooks Kintyre.

The village shop stocks general food supplies, off sales, newspapers and magazines, local produce and crafts as well as an extensive range of organic produce. There is also an exhibition of art works by Marvin Elliot, a local sculptor. His wooden sculptures can be seen all over the island. In fact, visitors may spot a seal basking on a rock very near to the shop.
Corrie boasts one of the most beautiful golf courses in Britain with some of the most stunning views on Arran. Confusingly situated in the neighbouring village of Sannox, Corrie Golf Club is well worth a visit for golf enthusiasts. Two miles north of Corrie is the hamlet of Sannox, resting at the bottom of a glen it also has an idyllic little sandy beach.

Today it is popular with visitors who fancy a swim. Within the dramatic Glen Sannox it is possible to find an Iron Age fort and the remains of a village, abandoned in 1829 as part of the process of the Highland Clearances

The name stems from the Vikings who called the area, Sandvik, meaning the sandy bay. Today it is popular with visitors who fancy a swim. Within the dramatic Glen Sannox it is possible to find an Iron Age fort and the remains of a village, abandoned in 1829 as part of the process of the Highland Clearances. Mining was a source of employment in the area, when in 1840 a mine was opened in the area. Operations ended in 1862 when the 11th Duke of Hamilton closed the mine, claiming that it spoiled the local area.

However, the mine was reopened after the close of the First World War, and a railway and pier were built to transport the coal mined there. The source of coal ran out in 1938 and the mine closed. The railway and the pier were removed in the 1940s. Like Corrie, Sannox has one hotel, The Sannox Bay. Bar meals are served lunchtime and evening but visitors can also dine in the restaurant, which has earned a good reputation for its quality cuisine. The Sannox Bay hotel is an ideal base for hill walking and climbing and is only 50 yards from Corrie golf course, making it ideal for a golfing break.

Animal lovers can enjoy pony trekking a little further along the road.

Open all year round, treks take place through scenic countryside and total beginners are welcome from the age of five upwards. As you drive on the road over the Boguillie hill you will see some of Arran’s most fascinating wild life.

Herds of deer roam the hilltops while above you there is the chance that you’ll spot a Golden Eagle. Hidden at the bottom is arguably one of the island’s most beautiful villages. Lochranza is surrounded on three sides by high imposing mountains and in the middle of the bay is a fine ruin of a 13th century castle.
The village is the most northerly sited of all Arran’s villages and is located in the north-western corner about 14 miles from Brodick. The village has been celebrated in verse by one of Scotland’s finest writers, Sir Walter Scott: ‘On fair Lochranza steamed the early day, Thin wreaths of cottage smoke are upward curl’d From the lone hamlet, which her inland bay And circling mountains sever from the world.’The Lord of the Isle.

As you drive on the road over the Boguillie hill you will see some of Arran’s most fascinating wild life.

The summer sunshine, beautiful blue sky, bright yellow gorse in flower and the crystal clear reflection of the majestic castle in the tranquil sea below, will be etched in your memory forever. The village is home to a healthy red deer population and, on the northern shore, grey seals are found all year round. Otters and golden eagles can also be spotted in the village. Red squirrels, oystercatchers, swans, cormorants and numerous varieties of duck, are just a few of the wonders that you can see every day in Lochranza.

A newly constructed pier now allows larger vessels easier access and the possibility for passengers to disembark for a short tour of the village. Regular vessels that use the pier include the paddle steamer Waverley which is also well worth a visit. The Isle of Arran Distillery can also be found in the village; it is one of the island’s biggest industries. It was built in 1995 and produces the Arran Single Malt. Nestled below the high mountains it produces a range of whiskies without the use of peat or aramel artificial colouring- ensuring that the products are true to the character of the island. Across the road from the distillery is Lochranza Golf and Campsite. Situated in a quiet corner 100 metres off the main road, the level grass site has room for 60 pitches.

The village has been celebrated in verse by one of Scotland’s finest writers, Sir Walter Scott: ‘On fair Lochranza steamed the early day, Thin wreaths of cottage smoke are upward curl’d From the lone hamlet, which her inland bay And circling mountains sever from the world.’The Lord of the Isle.

The 9-hole course looks directly down the glen towards the ruin of the castle at the bottom. The Lochranza Hotel stands amid this timeless village and has a spectacular panoramic view across the bay. It has a high level of hospitality and comfort, which sees many guests return again and again. The food is made using the best fresh local produce served in a style of traditional home cooked meals. Dinner can be taken in either the dining room or the bar, with its enviable collection of malt whiskies and choice of real ales. There are also numerous bed and breakfasts in the village. Apple lodge is in a tranquil setting in its own gardens.

The house is furnished to a very high standard and offers a comfortable, relaxing atmosphere. Jeannie Boyd creates mouth-watering dishes of local food for all to enjoy. Lochranza is also the sight of the only youth hostel on the island situated next to Lochranza village hall. Just a mile around the coast from Lochranza is the tiny but beautiful village of Catacol. It boasts one of Arran’s strangest attractions; a row of houses nicknamed the 12 Apostles. They were built to house those moved from the surrounding countryside during the Highland clearances when much of the interior of the island was set aside for deer.

The theory was that these former farmers would turn to fishing, and with this in mind, each of the twelve cottages has a differently shaped first floor window. This would allow the woman of the house to signal to her husband out fishing in the Firth of Clyde by placing a candle in the window. The husband would then know who was being signaled to by the shape of the window. In reality most of the dispossessed moved away to other parts of the island in protest against their eviction and took 20 years for the houses to be fully occupied. The Catacol Bay Hotel is one of the most wonderful places to sit and watch the sun go down at the end of a summer’s day. The beer garden offers spectacular views across Kintyre and whatever the weather you are pretty much guaranteed a good show and a good pint. Seven miles south is Pirnmill, flanked by satellite clachans: Lenimore, Thunderguy and Auchamore to the north, and Altgolach, Whitefarland, Banliken and Imacher, to the south. The original settlement of Penrioch sprawled along the braes above the shore. In its heyday there were an astonishing number of hamlets and cottages scattered along the hillside.

Red squirrels, oystercatchers, swans, cormorants and numerous varieties of duck, are just a few of the wonders that you can see every day in Lochranza.

All that remains of many of these homes are tumbled grey stones and vague memories. In the early days the villagers made a living from fishing, crofting, some illicit distilling and smuggling and later on from working the pirn or bobbin mill that stood until 1840.
When larger homes were built along the shore the village became a lively holiday centre with tennis courts, putting green, golf course and ceilidhs in what is now the Lighthouse Tearoom. Houses have now been built on the site of the putting green, the site of the tennis courts is still obvious and if you look carefully around Penrioch you can still see signs of tees from the golf course.
The Lighthouse is the perfect place for either afternoon tea or a full evening meal offering a superb range of local Arran produce cooked to perfection. Whether you want langoustines or a fillet steak, the Lighthouse will adequately fulfill your needs.The north of the island has a huge range of activities to offer and with so many places to see and things to do you will be drawn back again and again.