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Out into the west

Author Holiday Arran

The tranquil harbour at Blackwaterfoot

Sunsets and stone circles - plus a cave fit for a King

AS YOU travel on down the coast from Pirnmill the views of the Mull of Kintyre and the North of Ireland are breathtaking. Following the road high above Whitefarland past the charming Imachar farm visitors can see for miles on a fine day.
As you drive south you will see the magnificent Dougarie lodge on your left. This imposing white house hidden in Glen Iorsa was once the summer residence of the Duke of Hamilton. On the beach there is a delightful old boathouse leading down to the beach. It may be small but this is one of the west coasts loveliest beaches, plus there is a handy changing hut to protect one’s modesty.

A little further round the coast is Machrie, which is little more than a wide cluster of houses surrounding a charming golf course.
This flat seaside course sports nine holes and is 2200 yards.

On the beach there is a delightful old boathouse leading down to the beach. It may be small but this is one of the west coasts loveliest beaches, plus there is a handy changing hut to protect one’s modesty.

There is also a putting green and small practice area as well as tennis courts. The Clubhouse is the old village hall and the tearoom inside is well worth a visit. They offer a range of snacks made from local produce. Just towards the north of the golf course there is a Historic Scotland sign pointing to the Moss Farm road Stone Circle, which lies about half a mile walk along the farm track. There is another Bronze Age sight nearby at Auchagallon. As the road makes it way towards Blackwaterfoot it passes Machrie Moor, the site of Arran’s most impressive stone circles.

There is parking by the Historic Scotland sign on the right hand side. Visitors then must walk one and a half miles along a track before suddenly coming upon no fewer than six stone circles. Many of them are barely visible above the ground, but the tallest is over 18 feet high. The whole area is full of ancient remains. A little further along is a forestry commission car park. There is a standing stone here that marks the grave of Fingal’s daughter and there are also the remains of an old fort. The path then leads down a steep cliff and across some rocks to the King’s Cave.

As the road makes it way towards Blackwaterfoot it passes Machrie Moor, the site of Arran’s most impressive stone circles.

The views across the Firth of Clyde from the String road
It was here that Robert the Bruce found inspiration from a simple spider, as it repeatedly struggled up its silken thread. There are three other caves known as his Kitchen, Cellar and Stable, which may have been used by Fingal himself. Strangely enough, the cliffs here have basaltic pillars too, just like those on Staffa, the site of the famous Fingal’s Cave. The little fishing village of Blackwaterfoot is set around an attractive bay with a tiny harbour.

The village was originally just the port for the village of Shiskine situated further up the glen. It was dominated by an awesome cairn, which by the mid 1880s had almost disappeared, the stones being used for houses and dykes. The area was excavated around 1900 and a grave containing a bronze dagger decorated with gold was found. In 1896 as Blackwaterfoot developed as a tourist centre, the Shiskine golf and tennis club came into being when its unique 12 hole golf course was laid out a Drumadoon. The club has gone from strength to strength and in 2001 the tennis courts were upgraded with new surfacing and floodlights. The tearoom at Shiskine Golf Club serves a wide selection of homecooked meals and snacks perfect after a round of golf or for any one visiting the beach.

The beach at Blackwaterfoot must be mentioned. Stretching for miles below the golf course, it draws people from all over the island whatever the weather or time of year. And of course, the sunsets can be spectacular. There are several hotels and pubs in the village as well as shops and a post office.

The area was excavated around 1900 and a grave containing a bronze dagger decorated with gold was found.

The Kinloch Hotel is one of the largest on the island. The same family has run it for over 50 years. It is relaxed and comfortable serving great food and good beers. There is a swimming pool and sauna too open to the public, ideal for those rainy afternoons.

A mile up the hill is the village of Shiskine. This used to be one of the liveliest villages in Arran with a church, a school, two shops, a smiddy, a police station, and public house. Although many of these are no longer here, there is still plenty to do. The Balmichael Visitor centre is great for a day out, offering a little bit of everything. Built on a traditional farm with restored sandstone buildings surrounding a courtyard, there is a great pottery where kids can paint their own ceramics, an antique stable, various craft and gift shops and a coffee shop.

For the kids this is an ideal place with trampolines, quad biking for the younger and older children as well as a play barn and laser quest. Also to keep the adults amused there is a driving range where you can rent balls and clubs. All in all a great day out whether it’s a beautiful sunny day or it is raining.

The beach at Blackwaterfoot must be mentioned.

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